What I’ve been up to lately.

Or, in other words, what I’ve been up to over the last two years (since I’ve updated this blog).


In writing
here are a few pieces I’ve published that I am proud of, for Big Think

Maggie after a day of bouldering in Bolam Pass, Telluride, looking across the valley floor, hazy with incoming wildfire smoke.

An interview with Anne Lamott & Neal Allen about their new book, Good Writing

A piece on why the short story deserves more attention

A personal essay about my time living in a van (available in a very beautiful print magazine, as well – the art team nailed the photos and layout)

An interview with Dr. Martin Picard, who is leading an emerging field in biology that studies the intersection of energy & health through empirical studies involving mitochondria.

A profile of Dr. Betül Kaçar, an astrobiologist, and a lovely, wise person.

and many more, over on Big Think

In climbing..

The end of the crux on Route of All Evil (and the redpoint crux of Necessary Evil!)

In February 2025, I sent The Route of All Evil – my hardest and proudest climb to date. Last winter I began to work its famous cousin Necessary Evil , generally finding my fingers to be far too weak – and my power too lackluster- to reliably tackle the v11/12 intro boulder. This summer, I embarked on a training plan to see if I could level up. Hopefully I’ll have a chance to try the route some more this winter.

I traveled to Greece and various parts of Spain. I began speaking Spanish again, more regularly.

Ticked my first 8a+ flash (more like a ‘flosh’)

I went exploring across the western United States to “rando” crags and boulder fields – SW Colorado and Utah, around Las Vegas, Colorado, California..

I’ve been navigating a dropping sense of motivation, paired, however, with a growing sense of pride and accomplishment in what I’ve managed to do and how I’ve lived my life—even if the path I am looking back on may no longer be the path I want to take ahead.

In life...

An old photo from the Golden Gate Range (NV). One of my favorites.

Ending a serious relationship in 2024 – and pursuing other threads since – has left questions I still confront on a daily basis. I suppose I figured I’d have it all worked out by now. I try to keep Rumi’s advice in mind – that is, to love the questions themselves.

I’ve been prioritizing going to see live music. Unforgettable nights ensued – Justice, Jamie XX, Lane 8, The XX, the list goes on. I relish in gaining energy from others on the dance floor, everyone on the same wavelength, all of us letting go.

I wrote a short story that I’m far too embarrased to publish here.

After a long break, I began shooting with my film camera again.

I lost my more stable writing jobs, I suspect to AI, and couldn’t find another one.

I accepted a teaching position at a community college in Sacramento, dusting off that ole PhD and re-immersing myself in the world of botany.

I’m 35, without really any friends in Sacramento. I like to ride my bike around town and get to know the neighborhoods (and impressive tree canopy).
It’s all a bit of a trip.
AKA – I’m new here, will you show me around?

More soon.



THINGS BEHIND THINGS BEHIND THINGS

“If people were silent about the things that had happened to them, was something not being betrayed, even if only the version of themselves that had experienced them?”  – Rachel Cusk

Photo by Tara Kerzhner


FEBRUARY 2024
ARIZONA
Virgin River Gorge (VRG)

There’s a specific bend on the trail where, if you know to look up, you’ll catch the tallest point of the Blasphemy Wall. A few more steps, and its entirety rises suddenly from the ground, like a challenge. I always stop here, just for a moment.

By now, I’ve honed a routine: music on, stick-clip the second bolt, walk out to the slab that juts over the highway below. From there, I look at the route. I take my hands out of my jacket, let the cold air harden my skin. Sometimes, I mime a move or two.

The crux of Atonement came early for me—move eight. A lock-off from a right-hand microcrimp that chews into my skin and a left-hand “emotional support hold”: nothing more than an indentation in the wall, but just enough to get my hips where they need to be. Then, a deadpoint to a left-hand sidepull—body tension at its finest, a razor-thin margin between too taut and too loose. When I’m on form, my right foot holds, and my left cuts. When I’m not, I sag too far from the wall before I latch the hold, and I’m off.

For the last few sessions in a row, I couldn’t stick this move—not from the ground, not even in isolation. I’d climb from the very next move to the top on autopilot, but that didn’t mean much if I couldn’t hit the crux.

It’s the worst case of the “VRG lifecycle” I’ve experienced. You make quick progress. Then, you slowly start regressing. Some combination of thin skin, finicky conditions, and a defeated morale all combine to take you from “Next go for sure,” to “not my best day,” to “fuck this place.” Like some complex insect, you have to molt through dozens of near-deaths to finally emerge as the beautiful, sendy butterfly. Mostly, it’s demoralizing. But if you can catch that moment–if you can climb with the kind of focus it demands–I’ve not quite found anything like it.

December moved to January. Then February. The sun was inching toward the wall, ready to shut the season down.

After a few minutes, I walk from the slabs to the base of the route and tie in.
Shoes on, jacket off, music paused.

I go for it.
I don’t stick it.

I lower and sit at the base, still tied in. I’ll go again in five minutes.
My shoes half on, the heels sticking out for air.

Continue reading “THINGS BEHIND THINGS BEHIND THINGS”

My Time on Planet Earth

Photo by Rachel Melville

In the middle of winter, I began calling the Virgin River Gorge (VRG) the “Twilight Zone.” The Cambridge Dictionary defines the Twilight Zone as an area where two different ways of life or states of existence meet.

This description came to me on a particularly cold and damp January afternoon. I was sitting on the slab perch beneath the Planet Earth Wall, at the base of Dirt Cowboy, preparing to climb. The temperature hovered around 42 degrees, but, without a breeze, all of us were shedding layers as we climbed.

The VRG draws fame from its juxtaposition—the common refrain jokes that the cliff houses the best limestone in America, but in the worst location. Anyone who has spent time here understands that the VRG’s paradox only begins superficially with its freeway-adjacent location and mind-boggling weather patterns that vary minute-to-minute. In one way or another, the physical contradictions of the place infect your bloodstream and color your experience.

There was a contrast built into the way I approached my climbing day-to-day, and how I considered the season as a whole. For me, my desired outcome seemed completely unimaginable, yet altogether inevitable.

Continue reading “My Time on Planet Earth”

A Publication

I am proud to announce that I, with the major support of several colleagues, have published a paper in the journal Ecology that summarizes a large part of my doctoral work. In the paper, we summarize our analysis of a large-scale vegetation dataset collected by the National Park Service. Our results suggest that hemiparasitic plants are associated with greater community evenness across North America, a finding which has implications for our understanding of the mechanisms promoting and sustaining biological diversity.

Introducing: You Can Climb Whatever You Like

#Desertvibes, or whatever. Tom Moulin and I spending the first days of 2021 completely ignoring the splitter cracks at Cat Wall and setting up a bunch of SICK topropes, because we were too lazy to go get the pads out of the vans.

Last week, I found myself in Moab.

Not exactly known for my crack prowess, I wasn’t here for some sick splittah’s, or to #gethigh on some even sicker desert towers. I was here to laugh.

I came off a shorter-than-expected season at Mt. Charleston, Nevada, with a win, and a loss. Nearly five months of being without work, and still with no real plan in sight, the anxiety of “what to do” began to strengthen, and position its way in front of my mind, filling the space left by the end of a projecting cycle.

I craved something lighter, and so, showed up at my best friend’s house.

Maggie lives in a walk in community in Moab, which is lovely and quaint, but really annoying when you forget something in your car. She, for reasons I still don’t really understand, hasn’t had internet for as long as I have ever visited her here. The “modern homesteader,” I call her – I’m hoping to make it big with a non-fiction book I am entitling “Little House in the Hippie Walk-in Community in Moab” (it’s a work in progress).

Maggie and I feed off of each other’s wit and shared sense of humor, which I would like to think is intelligent, yet capitalizes on silly, trivial moments. It was when we both, surrounded by others, could not stop laughing while listening to James Blunt’s “You’re Beautiful” (trying, of course, to write a grief-stricken parody to routes we will never climb called “You’re Morpho”), Howie Day’s “Collide” (a love song from a climber to her crash pad) and Coldplay’s “Fix You” (about fixing ropes, naturally), that I realized, our big masterpiece, which we wrote five years ago, needed to be released. What better platform than my seldom-read, and very poorly promoted, personal blog!

So, for something different, to all of my many #instatwitter followers, I am releasing “You Can Climb Whatever You Like” to the world.

For reference – and to truly understand the depth of our magnum opus – I would suggest listening to (and carefully reading the lyrics of) T.I.’s original 2008 smash hit ” Whatever You Like” found here.

Continue reading “Introducing: You Can Climb Whatever You Like”

RED-S: A Recovery

Finding my rhythm. (Photo: Trúc Nguyen Allen)

This is a follow-up to a post I wrote one year ago, which can be found here

Most of us remember our 30th birthday. No longer young, yet neither old, the third decade is said to be a period of clarity, bringing heightened self-awareness and confidence. 

For me, it certainly felt like a transition: finishing up five years of graduate school, I was preparing to embrace change. Yet, I was also preoccupied with another deadline – around 30, we stop building bone.

At 26, I went to see my gynecologist, hoping to change my birth control. Feeling healthy and strong, I expected a routine appointment. Yet, over a series of visits, I discovered that, despite no noticeable loss in energy, strength, or weight, my bone density had been silently decreasing for years. It was severe enough that I had osteopenia, a condition in which the body does not make new bone as quickly as it reabsorbs old bone. Were it to continue, I would certainly develop osteoporosis, an irreversible disease in which bones are brittle and fracture easily.

I was diagnosed with relative energy deficiency in sport (RED-S), a condition where the body does not take in enough energy to meet the demands placed on it. For women, this results in hormonal imbalances that reduce estrogen, a hormone critical for bone health.

The conversations I had with doctors and specialists remain muffled in my memory. But, the numbers are glass, clear and sharp: In parts of my body, I had 81% of normal bone density; I had around four years (until I turned 30) left to build the bone back. 

I read a number of personal accounts of men and women diagnosed with RED-S, yet, never found a story of recovered bone density loss. It was easy to feel alone in my journey without a timeline, without benchmarks, and without a roadmap. I had to trust that my body would set itself right, if, mentally, I was on its side.

Continue reading “RED-S: A Recovery”

The Space Between

Returning to Smith. (Photo: Tara Kerzhner)


The room was dimly lit, with teal linoleum chairs, a grumbling AC, and late Nevadan light penetrating even the darkest of curtains. It was large, meant for meetings or  presentations for an audience. The woman I had just met, who led me into the room, told me that I was welcome to use the kitchenette, and I wondered where she came from, considering how comical it was that this woman was a critical part of a day I had been planning for years.

I chose a chair and placed it against the most unadorned part of the beige wall. I filled the cup I had brought with water from the kitchenette. I took out a few snacks from my small backpack and placed them neatly near me, just in case I got hungry.  

Three hours later, I closed my laptop and leaned back uncomfortably against my chair. The whine of the AC suddenly grew louder as it started another cycle. For the first time, I heard the footsteps of the guests milling about on the other side of the wall. Doors closing, muffled conversations fading away.

It felt strange being a newly minted Dr. Hodzic alone in this hotel conference room in Nevada. Having attended many defenses during my time in Seattle, I knew the drill: you hope to get Douglass hall, because it is the nicest room, with large windows revealing the vibrant greenery of the botanic gardens. But, you will settle if you have to go to Bloedel. Everyone in your lab brings snacks. You socialize during the 5 minutes you have to breathe after your defense and before your private deliberation with your committee. Then, you throw a party at a house, at a brewery, wherever; all that mattered was that you let go of everything. I craved the same celebration for myself.

In that moment, the air was mute, numb, unsaturated, unpalpable, disappointing.

Continue reading “The Space Between”

 Acknowledgements

At the end of May, I successfully completed my PhD. Commonly, the research chapters of a dissertation are written and submitted as manuscripts to academic journals. However, other parts of the text (synthesis, introduction, etc.) mostly go unread except by the committee.

In an effort to give a proper and more public expression of gratitude to those whose help and support I was fortunate enough to receive, I share my acknowledgements page below.

The final stage of a PhD—communicating the answers to my research questions—was, not, in my opinion, the hard part. The hard part was the beginning: trying to find interesting and different questions to make my doctoral work matter. I struggled with the niche nature of a PhD, fearful of the idea that it would ultimately only serve to make me an expert in a very narrow subject field. I have come to realize that the opposite is true. Over the past four and a half years, I have been tasked with learning what the right questions to ask are and discovering how to best seek out their answers. This is a skill which I will never fully master—one that takes as much creativity as it does knowledge, and which will only serve to enrich and enhance my life.

Continue reading ” Acknowledgements”

Mastery

This was originally written for Gnarly Nutrition

No matter what I did, the heel hook would not stick.

the heel hook on “Gription” v9 at Moe’s Valley; which gave me some trouble

I tried to use different pairs of shoes. I showed up when it was crisp.  I recorded myself to see if there was a difference in my hip position between when I stuck the move and when I did not. I meticulously focused on comparing each potential body position – was it better if my left foot smeared as I pulled with the right heel, or if I used it as a back-flag?

Yet, whether or not my heel-hook would stay on – allowing me to pull with it and reach the final hold of the problem – seemed more related to luck and cosmic forces rather than skill or technique. This bothered me. For days, I walked away frustrated, but also intrigued. What was so mystical about this heel hook that made it so difficult? The grade of the boulder was hard for me, but not novel. Every other move was difficult but consistently repeatable.

I considered changing my beta, using the more typical left heel hook that would be harder to reach for my short frame, yet, once established, easier to move off of. There was a chance that if I committed to the left outro, the time invested in the new method would lead to a quicker tick than if I kept trudging forward with my beta.

But I was stubborn.

Continue reading “Mastery”

Living in Fear

“It was as if, because of the very strangeness of my heritage and the worlds I straddled, I was from everywhere and nowhere at once, a combination of ill-fitting parts, like a platypus or some imaginary beast, confined to a fragile habitat, unsure of where I belonged. And I sensed, without fully understanding why or how, that unless I could stitch my life together and situate myself along some firm axis, I might end up in some basic way living my life alone.”

Barack Obama, A Promised Land

My tongue will tell the anger of my heart, or else my heart concealing it will break

William Shakespeare

For my parents , with immense gratitude


For a few weeks afterwards, I often lied awake and wondered what finally lead me to my tipping point.

Just before I was to leave Seattle, on a gray December afternoon, I walked into my advisor’s office.

With five words I released what demons had been haunting me for the last year, as I moved apathetically through a Ph.D. program.

“I can’t do this anymore.”

Continue reading “Living in Fear”