Mallorca- psicobloc!!

Note: This is an old post whose content was created for fun, with little to no proof-reading or editing. Please read this post keeping that in mind.

In Spanish, “psicobloc” literally translates into “crazy bouldering” which is probably the best way to describe deep-water soloing, a scary but exhilarating form of climbing in which the climber ascends without a rope (aka: soloing), but does so over the ocean so the water serves as protection in the event of a fall. Perhaps the most revered location to practice DWS is Mallorca, one of the four Balearic islands in the Mediterranean sea off of the coast of Spain.  As I explained in my other blog post about the sport climbing on Mallorca, my friend Nat, who just so happens to be a super strong rock-climber, has been living in Palma, the main city in Mallorca. So, when the opportunity presented itself to go to Mallorca and crash on his couch for a few days while sampling the islands climbing, I couldn’t resist. Nat graciously agreed to host me and show me both the sport climbing and DWS.
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Mallorca- Sport Climbing

View from the road leading to Gorg Blau, a climbing sector in Mallorca located in the mountains
Note: This is an old post whose content was created for fun, with little to no proof-reading or editing. Please read this post keeping that in mind.

My four day trip to Mallorca, one of the four Balearic islands off of the eastern coast of Spain, started off with me getting lost in my bright blue Fiat Panda rental car on my way to find my friend Nat. Luckily, this rental car experience didn’t start nearly as badly as the one I had in Portugal, where it took me a good five minutes to figure out how to put the car in reverse (I’m a good stick driver, I swear). This time I hopped in and, feeling like a boss, pulled out onto the freeway with major ganas to eat a bocadillo (“sandwich” in Spanish and quite the popular lunch item) meet my friend Nat at his apartment in Palma and leave as soon as possible to go climbing.  I met Nat almost three years ago at UC Davis, my university, at the climbing wall in our school gym, where my love affair with climbing began. Still, we never really climbed or hung out together too much apart from sometimes climbing together at the gym. When I first arrived in Barcelona some casual facebook browsing led me to the discovery that Nat was living in Mallorca teaching English and, more than anything, climbing overhung limestone tufa. Continue reading “Mallorca- Sport Climbing”

Reflection

A few days after my surgery. You can see my wheelchair in the background;
I’m so glad to be rid of those space boots. Recovering from the surgery
in the end was the easiest part of the entire experience
Note: This is an old post whose content was created for fun, with little to no proof-reading or editing. Please read this post keeping that in mind.
Yesterday I finished my final exams here in Spain and now I can look forward to two months of traveling and, above all, climbing. It’s hard to believe that almost a year ago I woke up with excruciating foot pain after what had already been the most challenging six months of my life. I took the quarter off and lived from doctor’s visit to doctor’s visit unable to run, drive, walk my dog, climb or even run basic errands. The pain consumed me and I fell into a depression and became a shell of my former self.  I lived from diagnosis to diagnosis, hearing words that terrified me, words like “neuropathy” , “Lupus” and “permanent nerve damage”; words and vague statements that threatened to change my way of life forever. Four months passed without an answer or relief and I was beginning to doubt that I would be well enough to leave the country in January or even to live a normal life at home. Then, in the middle of November, after countless doctor’s visits and tests, I was finally diagnosed with compartment syndrome, a rare ailment that only requires minimal surgery to cure. Continue reading “Reflection”

Local Cragging- Montserrat and Berga

Note: This is an old post whose content was created for fun, with little to no proof-reading or editing. Please read this post keeping that in mind.
Vista from Berga with Montserrat seen in the distance

Apart from visiting some of the premier climbing destinations in Europe, I have climbed at smaller local crags that are closer to Barcelona. Here are a few of my favorites.

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Margalef, AKA: Heaven

Note: This is an old post whose content was created for fun, with little to no proof-reading or editing. Please read this post keeping that in mind.
 
If I was granted the ability to pluck out one of the crags I’ve been to in Spain and take it back with me to the States I would without a doubt choose Margalef, or as it’s otherwise known to me- heaven on earth. 
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Rodellar!

Note: This is an old post whose content was created for fun, with little to no proof-reading or editing. Please read this post keeping that in mind.
Ever since arriving in Barcelona in January I had heard about Rodellar, a climbing sector in the province of Aragón, west of Catalunya.  Rodellar sounded like the type of Spanish sport climbing I saw in all of the climbing videos; it features long tufa lines stretching down huge overhung limestone caves and has more than 200 routes graded 8a (holy shit!!) In fact, in the UKC climbing website they call it “the land of lactic acid” due to the sheer angle of the walls. Rodellar is a spring/summer crag, however, so I had to wait until the end of April to visit it.

Guest Blogger Colleen Kamoroff!!!

Note: This is an old post, whose content was created for fun, with minor proof-reading. Please read this post keeping that in mind 

The author sending hard in Margalef

My friend Colleen Kamoroff has flown all the way from California to visit me in Spain and to have an adventure of her own. She allowed me to share with you, my glorious readers, (mom, dad and some random people from Russia- thanks for reading!) her experiences thus far.  Before anything, I’d like to share a collaborative haiku we made which, I think, summarizes my experiences in Spain quite well:

Jasna climbs a rock
Jasna falls off of a rock
Venga, a muerte!

and without further ado… here is Colleen’s blog post

Portugal!

Note: This is an old post, whose content was created for fun, with minor proof-reading. Please read this post keeping that in mind 

A mere 2 weeks after my 11 day adventure through Spain I set off for Portugal with Jason. Before coming to Spain Portugal was never on my “must visit” list but I figured since it’s so close, and since I may not ever end up there again, I should go check it out. Of course, if possible, I wanted to sprinkle in some climbing throughout the trip. By seeking out climbing in all of the areas I travel, I find I get to explore places that I wouldn’t find in a guide book, and, well, I get to go climbing! This makes the sight-seeing a litte more bearable because sometimes (or all of the time) I get a little bit tired of going to museums or seeing my 1000th cathedral of all time.

So, after researching Portugal I found that one of the best climbing spots to go to is Sagres, which is on the Algarve coast on the very southern tip of Portugal. We had booked our tickets so that we could fly to Lisbon and into Porto, neither of which were anywhere near Sagres. But, after reading more and more about it we decided to take the plunge and rent a car. (and by “decided” I mean we debated the topic until the last possible moment )

“Little Yosemite” sector in “The Chamber” in
Sagres. Check out that 6a+ crack and the
chimney start of the 6b+ to it’s right!

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